• Showers will fail to operate correctly if supply pressures are too high or, more commonly, too low.
• So, fit a pressure gauge to check minimum and maximum pressures within the specification of the unit.
• To check flow rates are correct use a flowmeter, or even a bucket and stopwatch.
• If pressures or flow rates are too low for an electric shower to operate, fit a T450i pump, connected to a tank supply.
• Alternatively, fit a Triton T80si pumped/T90si pumped electric shower, with its own in-built pump.
• For mixer valves on a gravity system, fit a T550i pump if the pressure and flow rates are too low. This pump goes before the mixer.
• Alternatively, fit a T40i wall mounted booster pump, connected after the mixer.
• If pressures exceed the maximum rating on the shower, a pressure reducing valve must be fitted. This obviously reduces pressure but maintains the required flow rates.

• Uneven walls are the main cause of distortion when mounting units - the front covers don't fit properly, the controls won't work, and there is a danger that when somebody is showering water can actually enter the unit.
• Mis-alligned pipework and trapped cables can also cause problems, so you always need to check the unit is really square and flat on the wall before trying to put the cover on.

• Don't use push-fit fittings on our showers - the water pressures can push them off, and the consequences can be very costly.
• We only recommend using compression fittings on any of our electric showers.

• We often see undersized cables coming in to our units, the most common is 2.5mm2. This is dangerous because the cables could overheat.
• The smallest size cable you can use on any shower is 6mm2 and there are times when it will need to be larger.
• You have to calculate the cable according to the I.E.E. regulations and the rating of each unit.

• If no isolating switch is fitted to an electric shower, and the fuse can't be accessed, say in a bedsit, then the shower user won't be able to isolate the shower if there is a serious fault on the unit.
• By the same token, if our engineers can't isolate the shower, they won't work on it.
• For the safety of everyone, always fit a double pole isolating switch. It can be fitted inside or outside the bathroom. Outside, it can be the wall mounted type, but inside it must be a pull cord switch.

• Incorrect installation of pipework on hot and cold supplies creates airlocks.
• This gives rise to a noisy pump and erratic shower performance.
• There are 3 methods adopted to avoid airlocks on the hot water supply:
• Firstly, by means of an Essex flange connection. This takes water from an air-free zone inside the cylinder.
• Secondly, a Surrey flange - easier to fit as it screws in to the top of the cylinder.
• And thirdly, by connecting to the existing water supply before other draw-off points.
• Of the 3 methods, we recommend connecting to the existing supply before other draw-off points.
• To avoid airlocks on the cold side, make a tank connection on the opposite side to the ball valve inlet. This prevents air bubbles, produced by the ball valve, entering the system.

• Connecting a Power Shower to the cold mains supply contravenes water bye-laws and seriously damages the unit.
• Power Showers are only designed to work on low pressure gravity systems, so don't plumb a Power Shower to the mains.

• Blockages cause flow rate problems on all showers.
• Always flush out the pipework thoroughly to remove all debris before making the final connections on to the unit.

Most of our units have integral filters, but for some separate filters are supplied and, if they are, always fit them.

• Connecting an electric shower with another appliance is against the I.E.E. regulations - it overloads the circuit and it's unsafe.
• So, whenever you are fitting an electric shower, always make sure it has got its own dedicated power supply.

• If you fit an under-rated fuse to a shower, it will just keep tripping out. Fit an over-rated fuse, and you will overheat the cable and there is a danger of fire.
• To avoid these problems, always fit the correct size fuse for the kW rating of the unit, in accordance with the I.E.E. regulations.

• We often see cables overheated in the terminal block.
• This is simply because the connections are loose.
• So, always make sure the connections are good and tight.

• Failing to commission the unit properly can cause a number of unnecessary problems. For example, when turning the shower on for the first time and it's on a 'Hot' setting and not a 'Cold', it's likely to damage the elements.
• If you don't remove the showerhead when filling the unit, the Pressure Relief Device (PRD) will blow and it will have to be replaced.
• When you're commissioning the Millennium units, there's a link pin and this has to be removed. If you don't, then you can't turn the shower off.
• So, always read the Fitting Instructions before commissioning a Triton electric shower.

• If pumped electric showers are mistakenly plumbed to the mains, this will result in damage to the pump impeller.
• Likewise, if a unit that should be on the mains is plumbed to a tank, no damage will occur, but there will be just insufficient pressure for the unit to work.
• So, make sure a pumped electric shower is plumbed to the tank and the others to the mains.

• If an LP mixer valve is connected to an HP system or an HP mixer valve is connected to an LP system: in both cases, neither of them will work satisfactorily.
• Before selecting a thermostatic mixer valve, always make sure that it is compatible with the hot water system in the property.
• Their suitability to the various hot water systems is detailed in the Fitting Instructions and the valve is clearly marked 'LP' and 'HP'.

• Unbelievably, one of the top 20 gaffs occurs when fitting our mixer valves - when the supplies are simply brought in crossed.
• What this means is that instead of getting a hot shower on a 'Hot' setting, you end up with a cold shower on a 'Hot' setting, or vice-versa.
• Triton's mixer valves are clearly marked for conventional supplies with 'Hot' on the left and 'Cold' to the right. So, when you're fitting any of our mixers, always make sure you don't mix up your supplies.

• On a typical gravity system, the mixer valve is supplied with hot water from a hot water cylinder.
• The cold water supply comes from the tank.
• If the mixer valve is connected to the mains water supply by mistake, there will be an imbalance of pressure. This will affect the temperature control.
• On a low pressure system, only take water from the cold tank.
• On a typical high pressure system, cold mains water enters the heater and is pressure reduced before it supplies hot water to the mixer.
• Cold water from the mains is supplied direct to the mixer.
• On high pressure systems, fit a pressure reducing valve after the stop tap, and before the cold supply to the mixer.

• When the All-In-One Power Shower is installed, there must be at least a 3 inch head from the bottom of the tank to the top of the unit, simply to prime the pump.
• If it is mounted above the waterline of the tank, no water enters the pump, it will run dry and seize up.
• The simple advice is never install this Power Shower in a negative head situation.